The Real Abu Dhabi

Admittedly, I did not know much about ABu Dhabi before we visited there a couple weeks ago. I knew it was a city with a lot of money, oil money, and I think I thought it was like a less developed Dubai. (Not that I knew a whole lot about Dubai either, for that matter.) But what I found was a city much more diverse. There are a huge number of ex-pats and immigrants living and working there. A majority of the immigrants come from India and Pakistan. And while the class structure there keeps an extremely wide divide between these immigrants and the native Emirates, there is an epic amount of construction happening at all times as the area grows, as well as tons of service jobs in any of the numerous upscale resorts and restaurants in the area. Not unlike the immigrant communities in the US, many of the UAE’s immigrants are sending money home to their families, working tirelessly toward a better future for their children.

Visiting a faraway country when you know someone who lives there offers a huge advantage in that you are able to see how people really live. To be fair, that also means mostly you see how your friend lives, and in this case we had the most exposure to the lives of ex-pats like them. But we were able to experience a much wider view of Abu Dhabi, and learn a bit about the history of Abu Dhabi and its social and political structure. We also were able to simply enjoy the refreshing beauty that it has to offer while we were on vacation. This is just a taste of Abu Dhabi, meant to give you a broad sense of my impression of the place.

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people lounging under the shade of public umbrellas at Saadiyat Beach

Abu Dhabi is essentially an island in the Persian Gulf. Interestingly, the beautiful beaches you see all around were man-made using sand shipped in from Japan.

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Saadiyat Beach

The water is beautiful, bright blue, almost tropical looking, and the beaches are so perfect it feels surreal.

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a view of one skyline from the Corniche

The buildings there make you feel like you might be in a sci-fi thriller. The city is very new, only around 45 years old, so each new building uses the very latest in design and technology, and almost seems to try to out-do its predecessors.

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a walk on the Corniche

The city seems to make a real effort to create spaces for people to gather, walk, ride bicycles, etc. Since we went at the beginning of summer it was already getting very hot during the days, but in the evenings around sunset you could see all kinds of people taking their evening jog or pushing baby carriages for a stroll as the air began to cool down. Corniche is the word the locals use to describe this boardwalk-like walkway, which stretches pretty far through the city. It’s also the name of this beach area. It seemed like any public space we visited while we were there had workers on standby to clean up any little piece of trash that might fall, so every park and walkway was spotless.

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the fruit market in Abu Dhabi

Away from the resorts and sky rises, we visited the markets where plenty of locals go for fresh local fruits and vegetables. There were dozens of stands cascading with tempting produce. So many sellers to chose from, most with the same items for sale as the next guy, so it was tough to chose who to buy from. They try persistently to sell you on their own so you don’t wander off to someone else’s.

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sellers at the fruit market in Abu Dhabi

We went toward the end of the day, so it wasn’t very crowded. People mostly seemed to be waiting for the next customer to pop by.

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piles of dates covered in plastic to ward off flies

In the same industrial port complex you could find dozens of date salesmen as well. This particular one is a favorite of our friends we were visiting.

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We like to call this a sheik date.

These were the best of the dates, housed indoors. Posted above them was a poster featuring Sheik Zayed and his two sons. Sheik Zayed was the much loved leader of Abu Dhabi (the capital of the Emirates) who is responsible for the arrangement regarding oil between the British and the Emirates that lead to the widespread wealth that is so apparent in the city today. No longer living, his older son is the current leader of Abu Dhabi. Photos of Sheik Zayed seem to pepper the city, sometimes in the most unexpected places.

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the fish market in Abu Dhabi

My husband, the master chef of our house, was in heaven in the fish market. You’ve never seen such beautiful fresh fish.

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colorful fresh fish

The fish in the market were so colorful, and almost seemed to still be swimming.

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taking a rest after a long day

Once you pick out the fish you want to take home, you can have it cleaned out at a station like this, although this guy seemed to be done for the day.

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delicious prawns, fresh from ocean to oven

Then, you can take that fish to any of the cooks in the market if you’d like. You could walk out of the market eating one of the freshest meals you’ve ever had.

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a fisherman takes a rest on his boat after a long day

Just outside of the market, there are probably 100 of these boats docked, ready to go out fishing the next morning.

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rusty old fishing boats out of service

And in the parking lot next to the fish market you will find these boats, clearly not fit for use, just resting sleepily. We saw lots of feral kittens living around these, probably waiting for the next little piece of fish to drop.

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the infinite pool at the Shangri-La Resort

In contrast, we got a taste of resort living in Abu Dhabi as well. We had a morning of swimming and lounging at the pool, where the service was incredibly luxurious. The service people there make sure you have plenty of water and walk around with cold towels, fruit to munch on, and even clean your sunglasses for you if you’d like.

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A view of the Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque

The Shangri-La also had this incredible view of the Grand Mosque. It is such an enormous structure, dominating the skyline. After seeing it like this I couldn’t wait to go there and see it up close.  (Come back Thursday for more on this spectacular place.)

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sunset at the St. Regis

Later that same night we went to the St. Regis for some outdoor yoga at sunset, and the view from my mat was magical.

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getting into the first pose of the evening

Our friend we were visiting was the yoga instructor for the class, and I was so pleased to finally be able to take one of her classes! We were incredibly relaxed at the end.

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a Muslim couple in traditional dress walk along the beach after dark

I loved catching this little glimpse into another way of life, actually not all that different from my own. Plus the skyline across the water was so bright. Abu Dhabi at night could almost be a completely different city than Abu Dhabi during the day.

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one of many stray cats by the beach

Even though I mentioned earlier that the public parks were all spotless, that doesn’t make them immune to cats. We encountered tons of stray cats, surprisingly affectionate but infected with fleas. They all seem to be pretty well fed though.

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a view of Emirates Palace from the 58th floor next door

One of the most opulent places we saw while we were there was Emirates Palace. It’s mainly a hotel and houses a variety of wonderful upscale restaurants and cafes. And yes, it is as huge as it looks. We barely scratched the surface when we went there for dinner on our last night in Abu Dhabi.

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top left: the most expensive scotch in the world

Emirates Palace is home to a scotch and cigar bar that sells the most expensive scotch in the world, a 57 year old Macallan that sells for over $4,000 per shot. No, we did not try it, but wouldn’t that be a story to tell!

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Gold To Go

And yes, the rumors are true, you can indeed buy gold from a vending machine there.

Are you intrigued? What would you most like to see in Abu Dhabi?

Top Vacation Photos: Turkey

Everywhere we went in Turkey was so beautiful and interesting, it would have been very difficult to take a bad photo. It was so hard to narrow these down, but this will give you a taste of some of the places we saw while we were there.

Note: I pre-wrote my blog posts for the weeks we were away, and so I didn’t have a chance to mention the protests going on in Istanbul while we were there. Between what was likely sensationalized news and the travel advisory issued by the US, we heard of many, many people cancelling their plans to visit Istanbul. It’s such a shame, they missed out on experiencing an incredible city! We generally stayed away from Taksim Square, the area where the majority of the protests were, but we were only staying about a mile or two from it and never ran into any trouble. All protests we encountered were peaceful, and we never felt in danger. In fact, in the heightened energy of the city it was kind of exciting to be there during this time! I understand that in recent days the prime minister has indicated that the police will be instructed to take more physical action against these protesters if they do not back off. I hope that the people are able to accomplish what they are after in their intended peaceful manner without any further injuries. Good luck to anyone fighting for this cause in Istanbul.

After a few days in Istanbul we moved to Cappadocia, which was otherworldly. It was so beautiful, relaxing, and the people were wonderful. In fact Uchisar, the village we stayed in, was not unlike a village you might see on the Mediterranean… just without the ocean. We’re already dying to go back!

Here are some of my favorite photos from Turkey. Enjoy!

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We wandered through this otherwise tourist free side street on our way to the Sulemaniye Mosque. (Istanbul)

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A sunset view of the Sulemaniye Mosque from a boat tour of the Bosphorous. (Istanbul)

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Tempting floral teas for sale in the Spice Bazaar. (Istanbul)

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A Turkish Coffee break while deciding what to see next. (Istanbul)

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The Basilica Cistern, built by the romans to store the city’s water. (Istanbul)

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A woman posed for us in her window on a little-traveled side street away from the tourist attractions. (Istanbul)

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A peak at the Hagia Sophia, built in the 5th century as a church then converted to a mosque in the 1400′s. Now it is a museum for all to enjoy. (Istanbul)

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A peaceful march, protesting Turkey’s prime minister. (Istanbul)

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Hot air balloon ride over the valleys of Cappadocia. (Uchisar)

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The village of Uchisar, one of many towns in Cappadocia with hundreds of homes created by digging caves into the sides of the mountains. Some of them are abandoned, but many still serve as homes, or have been converted into cave hotels like the one we stayed in. (Uchisar)

Top Vacation Photos: UAE

We’re home! Back from an unforgettable adventure with great friends in some incredible locations. As I recover from some wicked jet lag and take care of some of those regular life things that I allowed myself to completely forget about for the past two weeks, I thought I’d at least share some of my favorite photos from our trip. Today, I’ll start with a few favorites from Abu Dhabi and Dubai. (Photos of Turkey coming in my next post, so stay tuned.)

Enjoy!

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A fisherman resting, docked next to the Abu Dhabi fish market.

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A view of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque from across the waterway. (Abu Dhabi)

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Sunset at the St. Regis before a wonderfully refreshing outdoor yoga class. (Abu Dhabi)

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The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque courtyard. (Abu Dhabi)

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A photo break during a dune bashing trip through the Empty Quarter. (Abu Dhabi)

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Camel at sunset. (Abu Dhabi)

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Aquarium at the Atlantis resort in Dubai.

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Yoga in the park in front of the Burj Khalifa during the midday call to prayer. (Dubai)

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The Burj Khalifa at night. (Dubai)

This Week I Loved… Travel Edition: Turkey

(aka This Week in Turkey We Hope To Have Seen…)

The Blue Mosque (Photo Credit – http://www.bestourism.com)

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Hagia Sofia (Photo Credit - http://istanbulvisions.com)

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Spice bazaar (Photo Credit - http://commons.wikimedia.org)
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The Bosphorus (Photo Credit - http://www.turkeyvacationplaces.com)
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Hot Air Balloons (Photo Credit - http://www.travelpackagesturkey.com)
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Underground Cities (Photo Credit - http://cappadociaturkey.travel)
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Star Cave Hotel (Photo Credit - http://www.cappadociatoursguide.com)
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Next week I’ll be back blogging in real time, and I’m sure I’ll have lots and lots of blog fuel! Stay tuned for photos and stories from our travels.

Today We Are In: Cappadocia

At this point in our vacation we just arrived in Cappadocia yesterday, and we’re really excited about this part of the trip. Cappadocia is located almost smack-dab in the middle of Turkey, and the city dates all the way back to the 6th century. It’s known for it’s incredible network of underground cities. We’re hoping to spend a fair amount of time exploring them. Some are still fully functioning, and there are even some caves that have been converted into hotels.

Cappadocia is also known as a great place to go hot air ballooning. The hubby and I have been on a hot air balloon ride once before on our honeymoon, but certainly not over terrain like this.

Plus, there’s a little-known wine region in the surrounding area, and as the great wine appreciator, my husband is totally looking forward to tasting what will likely be wines unlike anything we get here in the states.

Because this is a much more remote area of the country, I’m expecting that we will be a bit more challenged to use our Turkish translation book and get some practice in this language far different than any of us will be familiar with. Hopefully we won’t offend anyone!

What would you most like to see in Cappadocia?

Today We Are In: Istanbul

At this point in our travels, we have been in Istanbul since Monday morning, with our friends from Abu Dhabi in tow. This is the first time we’ve traveled with friends, and we’re really looking forward to all that there is to discover about each other and our new surroundings! None of us have ever been to Turkey, so there will be a lot to pack in!

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, and straddles the Bosphorus. This means that Turkey and the city of Istanbul also straddle two continents, Europe and Asia (which encompasses the Middle East). It is a melting-pot city, where many different people from all cultures live together.

Aside from the plethora of incredibly old historical sites to see (some are many centuries old), we’re also looking forward to starting our mornings with Turkish coffee, which even here in the US is so thick it’s almost like drinking motor oil, yet it’s delightfully sweet. Also highly caffeinated!

We’re also looking forward to visiting the spice bazaar, among the many other markets we hope to discover, and eating some delicious foods, the likes of which we surely have never tried before!

And we’re taking on luxurious morning on this trip to visit a traditional Turkish bath, called a hamam. I think this experience will take our previous knowledge of a day spa to a new level!

What would you most like to see in Istanbul?

This Week I Loved… Travel Edition: United Arab Emirates

(aka This Week in the UAE We Hope To Have Seen…)

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque (Photo Credit - http://visitabudhabi.ae)

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UAE Pavilion (Photo Credit - http://www.constructionweekonline.com)

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Emirates Palace (Photo Credit - http://commons.wikimedia.org)

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The Arabian Desert (Photo Credit - http://www.nature.com)

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The Burj Khalifa (Photo Credit - http://architecture.about.com)

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Ferrari World (Photo Credit - http://www.bestdubaiholidays.com)

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Sunset Yoga (Photo Credit - 
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)

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Next week we’ll be moving on to Turkey! Stay tuned to follow us along on our journey.

Today We Are In: the United Arab Emirates

At this point in the week, we have been in the UAE for four days visiting with these wonderful friends.

469We’re spending this week in Abu Dhabi, where they live. Abu Dhabi is the capital of the United Arab Emirates, and is second to Dubai as the largest city in the UAE. Because it is a quickly developing city and one of the most expensive cities in the world, we are expecting to see lots of newly constructed skyscrapers and gorgeous resorts. We’re also expecting a hot sandy desert surrounding the city. We’ll be staying with our friends right near Emirates Palace.

Abu Dhabi is also home to Ferrari World, which is “the largest indoor and first Ferrari theme park.” It looks gigantic!

We’re also planning to get into Dubai this week, since it’s only about a 45 minute drive from Abu Dhabi. Dubai is a bit of an older city, and so we’re expecting more historical structures among the giant sky scrapers there. Dubai is home to the tallest building in the world and architectural phenomenon  the Burj Khalifa. I’m super excited to see it in person, and even better we will be celebrating my husband’s birthday over dinner there. It will be a birthday to remember, for sure!

Have you been to Abu Dhabi or Dubai, or do you want to go? What would you want to see there?

How I Fit Everything I Need For A Two Week International Vacation Into One Carry-on Bag

Ok, to be fair, the time of year helps a lot. In the UAE we’re expecting low temperatures of around 85 degrees and highs in the 105 degree range (Fahrenheit). My history in Arizona makes me specially qualified to be able to predict what this will be like (hot, but manageable). Then in Turkey we’re expecting lows of around 62 and highs in the 75 degree range. Just like California! I have to admit, it is definitely comforting to have a pretty good idea of what to pack. I am a chronic over-packer, but this time I was determined to pack light. There is the likelihood of doing a load of laundry at our friends’ apartment in Abu Dhabi before we all jump on a plane to Istanbul. But even so, this was challenging. Here’s how I did it.

Dresses are key! When packing for a vacation like this, I wanted to be able to dress light for the weather, be comfortable, and also have a few different outfit options over the course of the trip. There will be lots of pictures, after all! I started with these four dresses. Dresses take up much less space than a pants/shirt combo.

DSCN0828I do want to switch it up a bit though, so planning ahead I put together a variety of outfits. These lightweight khakis are ankle length and I love that they’re colorful, but not too loud. I’m bringing a lightweight long-sleeved sweater and an easy-going white t-shirt to pair with them.

DSCN0860I am, and probably always will be, a jeans-kinda-gal, so I couldn’t resist including these outfits too. I tried to include a variety of sleeve lengths to account for the range of temperatures we’ll be experiencing.

DSCN0863I’m aso bringing a couple lightweight cardigans and a jean jacket. These will serve two purposes: they will keep my arms warm on a cool night, and they will also function as lightweight cover-ups when we’re in conservative areas that may traditionally prefer women to be more covered. These three basics will work with just about every other item of clothing I’m bringing with me.

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I threw in this catch-all little black number for a night on the town, specifically for the hubby’s birthday dinner at the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. It will be a cause for celebration!

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I’m also making sure to bring a swimsuit for those luxurious resorts we’re hoping to drop into in Abu Dhabi, and my favorite yoga outfit so I can go to one of the classes our friend will be teaching while we’re visiting her and her husband in the UAE.

DSCN0845And of course shoes. This is a little more tricky and one of the areas I usually have the most trouble with, but this time I packed shoes on a need-only basis. I’m also lucky that my friend there has the same size shoe as me, so if I need an alternative option I can borrow one of hers. (That’s the plan for shoes to pair with that little black dress I’m bringing for the hubby’s birthday dinner!) So for bare necessities, I chose a loafer and a sandal. Both are Born shoes, which are super supportive and comfortable. Comfort and support are necessary with all the walking we’ll be doing.

DSCN0851Adding in a couple sets of pajamas and of course all the underwear and toiletries I will need, and the suitcase is pretty full. But not too full, so I can carry my bag on the plane if I want to. Mission accomplished! It’s a little heavy, but I’m sure the hubby will help me lift it into the overhead compartment if I bat my eyes a little bit. 

Do you think you could do it, pack for two weeks in a carry-on?

This Week I Loved…

Finding my cat asleep with her tongue hanging out.

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This photo of both my cats judging me.

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An incredible meal with some pescatarian friends.

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A demo on how to oxidize paint.

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This colorful breakfast.

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Preparing for an epic vacation with these wonderful friends.

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Packing my bag.

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And this… There is so much to see in Turkey!!!